Showing posts with label f stop. Show all posts
Showing posts with label f stop. Show all posts

Monday, September 21, 2009

Sunset Tips

Vol. 1 No. 44

With our Sunset Photo Meet quickly approaching, I thought I would compile a list of tips for photographing great sunsets.

  • If you plan properly, you will have about a 30-45 minute window to capture some spectacular images.  This time includes the lead up to sunset and twilight - the soft, diffused light from the sky when the sun is below the horizon, from sunset to nightfall. The light changes significantly during this period.  So you need to think about the elements you want to capture before sunset or you might miss the action.  With sunset at 6:51 pm EDT on the day of our shoot, I recommend arriving no later than 6:00 pm.  The magic of sunset normally begins a half hour prior to the sun setting.

  • Always be careful looking through a viewfinder directly at the sun.  It can be dangerous if the sure is not very low to the horizon.

  • Composition - the act of combining parts or elements to form a whole, or in our case a stunning sunset photograph.  If you have the option of shooting with a variety of focal lengths - do it!  Wide angle focal lengths are great for providing the expansive vista, but the setting sun will extremely small in the image.  If you want the sun to be a feature in your image, then you'll need to zoom in.
      
  • Include foreground elements.  Since these will usually be lit from behind by the setting sun, they will become silhouettes.  This will add visual impact.

  • Experiment with your white balance.  If you are shooting with a dSLR then this is easier to manage.  Switch between daylight, cloudy, shade and tungsten (indoor).   If you are using a point and shoot camera, you can achieve similar results by switching through the various scene modes you camera offers.  The result of applying different white balance will be dramatic.

  • If your camera begins to hunt for focus while photographing the setting sun you might miss the shot, or wind up with an out of focus image.  If you are using a point and shoot camera or a dSLR, you will need to focus on something in the frame that has contrast.  Focus on where the horizon or skyline meets the sky, then press and hold the shutter release half-way down until the focus locks.  Continue holding half-way down while you re-compose the image.  Once you have the scene framed the way you want, then completely press down on the shutter release to capture the image.

  • Set you camera's ISO to 100-200.  This will reduce noise in your image and result in slower shutter speeds. 

  • I like setting my camera to aperture-priority (usually marked A or Av) mode especially when shooting sunrises and sunsets.  I start by dialing in an aperture between f/11 to f/16. Just like white balance, you need to experiment.  You will grow tired of hearing me say this during photo walks and meets.

  • If your camera allows for bracketing, I suggest using a one stop difference.

  • In order to keep the colors saturated, I like to shoot slightly under exposed, so I adjust my exposure value (EV).  This is a personal preference since I don't like to add saturation in post production.

  • Do not just photograph the sunset. Turn around and look at areas behind you.  Look how the wonderful colors illuminate the many subjects that will be present.  This lighting might also offer a great portrait opportunity.

  • Tripods are essential for sharp images when you slow down the shutter.  Some sunset/twilight captures can drop the shutter speed to several seconds.  If you can't bring a tripod, look for someplace stable to place the camera. A park bench, a rock or railing might do the trick.

  • Change up the look.  Rotate the camera from horizontal (landscape) to vertical (portrait).  This can add a lot of interest.

  • Don't forget every sunset is unique.  Enjoy it like it's the first one you have ever seen.

Hope to see you at the Photography at Sunset Meet this coming Thursday, September 24, 2009.  Still haven't signed-up?  For more information and to register click here.


-30-

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Fireworks Photography

Vol. 1 No. 28
With Independence Day upon us, opportunities to photograph firework displays should be many.
Capturing fireworks takes a little thought. But you might be surprised by the wonderful images that can result.

shea2005_9426
©Tom Dowling


Follow these steps and you are sure to capture the moment.


Use a tripod - Since you will be using a slow shutter speed of several seconds, you need to keep the camera steady. There's no way you can hand-hold the camera and capture a sharp fireworks image. Instead of a tripod you could use a small beanbag, or a ledge to steady the camera. You need a solid platform to keep the camera steady.

Set your camera's sensitivity - To reduce noise from long exposures, set your camera's ISO to its lowest setting, such as 100 or 200. If it is set higher, your images will contain distracting artifact (noise).

Long Exposure NR - If your camera has a long exposure noise reduction feature, use it.
Your camera's sensor heats up during long exposures. This feature will help to eliminate the resulting noise. Expect to wait a little longer between image captures since it takes longer to process and save the images in the camera.

Aperture - I prefer f/11 - f/16 for more depth of field and better exposure of the bright explosions. This will also intensify or saturate the colors of the rocket bursts.

Focal Length - A normal to wide lens I find to be the best. Bursts from the fireworks can be rather large. A longer focal length will result in the cropping of these spectacular displays.

Camera Orientation - Your choices are portrait (vertical) or landscape (horizontal). In most cases, you are best to have the camera in the portrait orientation since this provides the vertical room needed to capture the firework's trajectory.

fireworks_9681
Frame you image - Try and include the crowd, or landmarks to give the images a sense of scale. Adding foreground or background objects will definitely add more interest to your images.

Use flash - only if you want to expose nearby bystanders. Make sure you set the flash to rear curtain so it only fires at the very end of the exposure to allow the ambient light from the fireworks to be recorded. This might take some practice. Otherwise, make sure the flash is set not to fire.

Other steps to ensure a sharp image - use the self-timer or a remote shutter release. Pressing down on the shutter release will result in camera shake. If you are shooting with a digital SLR camera, you should use a remote shutter release and the mirror lock-up mode. This mode will reduce and/or eliminate any vibration caused by the mirror swinging up out of the sensor's way during image capture.

Set your shutter speed - How long should you set the shutter to remain open? I usually count how long it takes a mortar (the fireworks) to leave its firing point, to the time the rocket burst blossoms fully. I then take a few shots using that amount of time. This usually ranges anywhere from 2 to 5 seconds. If you have a shutter setting called "bulb," the shutter will remain open until you depress the shutter release a second time. Only use this setting if you have a remote shutter release cable or wireless remote. Otherwise, depressing the shutter release button on the camera will result in camera shake and a blurry photo.

Catching multiple bursts - This is pretty simple. Leave the shutter open longer. Shutter speeds of 10 to 20 seconds will capture several exploding rockets.

Manual works best - If your camera is set to auto-focus, it will hunt continuously for a target. Instead, focus on an object relatively the same distance from the camera as the exploding fireworks. Then set the focus to manual and leave it there for the remainder of the display. This technique is called pre-focusing.

Remember - The great thing about digital cameras is you do not have to wait to process your images to view the results. Check your LCD often to see if you are getting the images you desire. If not, experiment with your settings. There's no additional cost.

The New York Institute of Photography has written an excellent article titled Shooting Fireworks with a Digital Point-and-Shoot Camera.

Be safe and leave the fireworks display to the professionals. Enjoy the show!

Happy 4th of July!


-30-

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Lightning Links

So many things happening, so little time to post. Here are some speed links I think you'll find interesting.


The Digital Photography School website has a great article covering all things aperture. Do f stops completely confuse you, and talk of depth of field leave you out of the discussion? This article should shed some light (sorry about that) on this fundamental topic.



Here's a funny one that I saw up on landscape pro Moose Peterson's blog from the Colbert Report. I wrote early last month about a photographer who was arrested by the Amtrak Police. Watch the Colbert Report's coverage of the incident. Trust me, you'll enjoy it.



And speaking of Moose, you need to check out this collection of photographs from the Anchorage Daily News. It's a gallery of 135 amazing moose images collected by the Alaskan daily.



What do you do with all those images? Photodoto has done a review of four compact photo printers under $150 you can take on the road with you. You'll be the center of attention at the next family reunion or birthday party as you hand out instant (almost) prints of the participants.



Enjoy!

 

Need a Professional Photographer - Hire Me